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Almeria, the Capital of the province

Population circa 176,000

Market days - Tuesday and Friday

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The city is the main transport hub for the region: the A7-E15 Autovia del Mediterráneo runs north-south; trains serve Granada and beyond, and there is a ferry daily (except Saturday) to Melilla (Spanish gateway town to Morocco) and, of course, it has an international airport. Airlines there include RyanAir, EasyJet and Jet2 (May 2007), plus national carriers Iberia and Spanair.

Built in the 19th century, Almería's main streets are wide and elegant, with both abundant chain-stores and boutiques, especially down the myriad of passageways leading to tree-lined squares. The outdoor cafe culture is very evident: the province enjoys the most sunny days of anywhere in Spain and the most stable temperature, averaging 19C daily throughout the year.

The 2005 Mediterranean Games were be held in Almería, with the water sports events in a newly constructed lake in Cuevas del Almanzora, which will now be used commercially. This, like all major athletic events, has brought major investment and development to the region.

Originally founded by the Phoenicians, the city of Almería was further occupied and developed by the Cathaginians, Romans (who called it Portus Magnus) and Moors (who renamed it al Maryat - Mirror of the Sea) before Ferdinand and Isabella's forces reconquered it in 1489. The Alcazaba, built in 995, dominates on a hill behind the city: it was rebuilt after the devasting 1522 earthquake by funds provided by the Monarchy, and is now the second-largest Muslim structure after the Alhambra Palace in Granada. A cathedral was also built, designed to serve as a refuge as well as a place of worship.

The Arab water tanks that were constructed in 1038 and fed by a thermal spring survived and are now a small museum. (Note that the Alcazaba is open to the public and is free if you show your foreign passport.)

Until 1833 Almeria remained part of the Kingdom of Granada, when Spain was reorganised into provinces and it became capital of the province of the same name. At his time the Industrial Revolution was well underway in northern Europe and the resulting demand for minerals from Almeria's hinterland led to the development of its present port; breakwaters were constructed and the city was connected by road and rail to the rest of the country. The iron architecture of the market, the railway station and the English loading bay date from this time. Today all this infrastructure is fully modern having a first quality airport, a busy port linking all Mediterranean ports in Europe and Northern Africa and upgrading its railroad to the modern AVE network (Spanish High Velocity Trains).

The city grew steadily until, in the 19th century, it was a world centre for the export of grapes, oranges and metals mined from the many rich ore-bearing areas around. The following century brought more disregard for the town's historical legacy but the organisation of the Mediterranean Games in 2005 has given a boost to the interest in the conservation of its past. Almería is now famous for its vast areas under plastic-covered greenhouses, stretching down to Roquetas de Mar and beyond, that grow much of Europe's tomatoes.

This lively city of Almeria offers plenty of varied accommodation; good value places to eat and drink; plenty of night life, including late night marquees on the beach; art galleries, museums and shops as well as historical buildings and monuments. It has its own beach and others nearby are easily accessible. The bus and train stations are close to the Avenida Federico García Lorca, while for the more adventurous there is a daily boat to Melilla on the Moroccan coast throughout the summer, and a restricted service operates out of season.

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